No one comes to Varanasi by chance. Yet, you are never prepared for the contradictory emotions that you experience here. Walk through the alleyways of the city and reach the 84 ghats that border the banks of the Ganges. Attend the daily ceremony of Ganga Aarti. Visit the burning ghats, where the well known public cremations take place. Varanasi can bring chaos into the minds of every Western traveller. Most run away; only the luckiest few understand its deep existential value.